Re: relays and continuous duty


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Posted by Rolf (154.20.197.33) on 14:02:49 09/04/07

In Reply to: Re: relays and continuous duty posted by Ben

This project does require much thought. DRL circuits have an extra feed wire and use the high beam feed for ground. This circuit is turned off as soon as headlights are turned on My alldata wiring diagram has poor detail in this regard but have another manual which details DRL module and relay circuitry better.
Your point re temp is noted, however 55 and 65 watt bulbs will be used in this case.
Both filaments will be on only while Burb in motion so some cooling airflow should prevent overheating.
Rolf

: Lighting is a very personal thing. 'I' don't like plastic lens of any kind, other than maybe a hand
: held, but would prefer glass or lead crystal.
:
: A few years ago Howard (from Oz) posted some pictures of his Suburban with quad lamps. Ever
: since, I've wanted to put in E-Code head lamps that are made from lead crystal. Not just any, but
: good ones (to me) with H1 or H2 bulbs.
: Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
: Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
: Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
:
: His is the same body style as mine, 1996...but...they are not a standard size over
: here and are for the other side of the road (right hand, we are left hand).
:
: Standard 165mmx100mm E-Code, lead crystal lens will fit with some effort. How much is going to
: depend on the holding and adjusting buckets/brackets.
:
: Blaine has a great suggestion and will be checking that out.
:
: I have 100 watt highs on the OEM plastic lamps on my 1996 and can say that I'll not have them on too
: long, as the whole lamp gets VERY hot.
:
: There is an other issue with these bulbs and it's with the stupid spade lug they chose. It's too
: small for over watt usage, and just barely okay for 65 watts. I like as little contact and wiring
: resistance as possible (voltage drop).
:
: Since too small and voltage drop, that connection will generate heat, to further reduce the contact
: efficiency.
:
: Anyway, back to your question. If you wish to use the OEM plastic lamps and light up all four, be
: aware that there is a risk of fire if the plastic over heats.
:
: The OEM wiring should be replaced by any of the wiring kits mentioned (including the DIY from the
: link to Stern's place).
:
: If you wish to maintain the DRL function, suggest adding another relay for that. Use the OEM
: harness/connections as the control source to run the relay coils. All bulb power to be sourced
: through the relay contacts, which will source from a fuse block sourced from either the battery or
: alternator. Alternator will be the brightest, but have more noise (spikes) that will need to
: filtered (voltage spikes will shorten the bulb life).
:
: This goes back to a product that Dave and I had on the burner. A set of control PCBs for this/these
: types of DIY'ers.
:
: Guess I'll have to noodle that some more and get back to you all.
:
: The hot link is to one of the better "How it works" pages I've found on this topic of headlamp reflector/lens types.
:
:
:



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