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Posted by BurbGuy (98.173.58.2) on 09:14:09 07/22/10
In Reply to: Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor on 2002 - HowTo? posted by BurbGuy
: I need to replace the CKP on my 2002 3/4T, 8.1L, 4WD Suburban.
I finally got this done. The stalling problem has disappeared. Thanks to those who offered their advice.
Here is the procedure I used, with annotations ...
The CKP sensor is located at the rear of the engine, near the top on the driver's side.
1) Raise the vehicle.
* Access from beneath the vehicle allowed a better visual inspection, made it easier to remove the electrical connector, and made it easer to apply penetrating oil.
2) Remove bolts for coil #7, and relocate coil to allow access to rear of engine.
* I allowed the coil to "hang" to the side of the valve cover.
3) Remove the electrical connector from the sensor.
* I did this from below, and was able to do it without damaging the retaining clip on the connector.
4) Remove the bolt that reatains the CKP sensor. It is a 10mm bolt.
* I used one of the newer wrenches that has a built-in ratchet. The wrench goes in from the driver's side, straight across the back of the cylinder head to get to the bolt. This can be done from above or below.
5) Remove the CKP sensor.
* This was the most difficult part of the job. I believe that the main reason it was so difficult is that I was not pulling the sensor straight. I ended up breaking the body of the sensor, but the wires that run through it were strong enough to allow me to remove the entire sensor. In the end, I used a small rope tied around the top, and levered it out along the edge of the valve cover. I did use penetrating oil, but it is not clear if that helped.
6) Lubricate the O-ring on the new sensor with engine oil.
7) Install the new CKP sensor.
* It was difficult to press it fully into position. I did this from above. There was just one hard spot, when it was almost fully inserted. I felt it "snap" into place, and was able to confirm that it was fully seated by confirming that the retaining arm on the sensor now lined up with the hole in the block where the retaining bolt goes.
8) Install retaining bolt.
* This was difficult to get in place. I did it from above. I used a threadlock compound so that it would not back out.
9) Install electrical connector.
* This was tight, because the connector on the replacement part is oriented left-to-right instead of front-to-back. It comes closer to a fuel/vacuum line than it used to.
10) Reinstall #7 coil.
11) Run the CKP variation learn procedure.
* This must be done any time the CKP sensor is removed, whether a new one is installed or an old one. I used a Tech2. Other scan tools may also support this procedure. The Tech2 has excellent instructions for the procedure.
Note: The FSM talks about removing a nut that holds a fuel line bracket in place. This may make access a little easier, but removing the nut and putting it back on would be difficult. I did not remove the nut for two reasons: I could not identify the specific nut, and I felt it would have created more trouble than it saved.
Due to the tight spaces, I do not have pictures of the procedure. However, I do have some pictures of the new/old CKP sensors. I don't have a public website, but I can supply the pictures to anyone that is interested.
My Email address has been obfuscated. To get a working address, reverse the order of the letters in the user name field, and swap the us and walkerclan fields with each other.
BurbGuy
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