Re: 1998 Suburban K2500 - Brakes

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Posted by Ben ( on 15:13:58 03/03/08

In Reply to: 1998 Suburban K2500 - Brakes posted by Chuck

Yes,pushing the MC rod in too far can damage the piston seals. The bore into the MC 'some times' is not finished all the way down to the bottom (cost reduction), as they know the pedal does not go that far in normal usage.

A new or rebuild kit (haven't seen a rebuild kit in decades....seems no one does that anymore).

Did you bench bleed the MC? That is to get the bubbles out of the piston area that is next to impossible when the lines are hooked.


I've never touched a proportioning valve (combo valve) before, so of no help there. Here is a cross section of one I found on the net loooong ago. Might help you some what.

Bleeding the ABS system requires a scan tool that will hold hope the ABS valves, which are normally closed to the rest of the braking system.

Other potential causes of the pedal going to the floor:

The brake hose banjo fittings require a 'new' copper washer. Copper because they are supposed to crush and deform to the machine marks to seal. If you re-used the old copper washers, they have work hardened and will NOT seal. You can re-use them like Steve of Id does. He torches them cherry red to anneal them (soften them).

The caliper bled screws might not be seating if you are re-using or bought after market that had rusty seats. This is from folks who leave off the bleeder screw boots and water gets in there. Once that seal is broken open to bleed that caliper, it will most likely never seal right again.

as for the slop, it depends how much. I've done brakes on driveways with an incline and don't think it would matter too much, unless severe incline.

Over at #1 Son's place there are many, many threads on the HOW2s of DIY brakes.

Be sure to keep any brake fluid from the friction material. Not a good thing for them.

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