Re: This worked for me (long-ish)


Posted by Kit Foster on January 14, 02 at 12:56:06:

In Reply to: Re: Lovely time, but new intake gasket is done posted by Matt R on January 13, 02 at 09:30:34:

: That's an ambitious project! Please consider writing a How2 for the rest of us.

This captures my recent experience on a 5.7, but most applies to 7.4 as well:

+Remove air cleaner
+If you worry about getting everything back on correctly, take some pix of the engine. Good use for your digital camera, if you have one, or an excuse to justify the purchase if you don't.
+Drain cooling system, then blow down with air to get as much coolant out of manifold as you can. Removing heater hose from radiator is one way to do this.
+Remove inlet heater hose and top radiator hose.
+Remove various wires from sensors, etc.
+Remove fuel lines and throttle body linkage.
+Remove throttle body (I couldn't figure out how to correctly disconnect the injectors, so I just set the body out of the way on the right side of engine compartment.
+Number the plug wires and remove dist. cap.
+Mark rotor postion on distributor, and dist. body position on manifold.
+Remove distributor.
+Remove various brackets held by manifold bolts. Putting all this stuff aside, each in the relative position it occupies on the engine, will help you in reassembly.
+Remove rest of manifold bolts.
+Knock manifold loose and remove, keeping it as level as possible to avoid coolant spillage (some will stay in the manifold).
+Even so, you will spill some coolant into the engine valley. Mop it up with an absorbent cloth. It does not mix with the oil, so you'll get most of it out.
+Clean up carbon deposits in the valley - they form around the EGR passages.
+Clean gasket surfaces with a razor-blade scraper, then fine emery cloth (and/or maybe brake cleaner?).
+This might be a good time to replace the heater hose quick-disconnect with a straight 1/2 NPT x 3/4 barb fitting, galvanized recommended by another lister. Two feet of ordinary 3/4 heater hose will connect to your heater inlet.
+Vacuum the valley to get all the carbon and gasket bits out. Shop vac does an admirable job.
+Put new gaskets in place on engine. My parts house had Chicago Gasket manifold set in stock, includes 2 manifold gaskets, throttle body gasket, dist gasket and end seals (5.7 seems to use RTV for end seal according to manual, although my set came with made-to-fit seals).
+Carefully drop manifold in place. Tighten bolts, then torque to 35 ft-lb, using sequence in the manual.
+Replace distributor, taking care that everything goes back as you marked it.
+Replace throttle body using new gasket.
+Replace all the other stuff, referring to you pix if you need to.
+Replace hoses.
+Refill cooling system.
+Start, drive it around to warm it up.
+Come home and change the oil and filter.

Time: the better part of three afternoons, but I was working outside in December, using the "heat of the day," with the sun on my back, and being careful and thorough. The professionals among us will quote shorter times. Total cost for parts: under $30.00.

: Did you use the factory manuals as a guide? If so what errors did you find?

No errors; it's pretty much this procedure, but I threw in a few "lessons learned." (I have discovered errors in manual regarding other things, however.)

Kit

Follow Ups:



Post a Followup