Posted by Ben on February 03, 05 at 18:27:54:
In Reply to: hard starting BB posted by grizzly on February 03, 05 at 17:32:22:
Mine is a 1996 with VERY HARD +150K miles.
Used to start with the first "tick" sound of the starter gear touching the ring gear.
No more, as of about a month ago. Maybe a few months, but got worse about a month ago.
Think it's not getting enough driving, as it's no longer the daily.
Plus it still has the OEM O2's and the other sensors haven't been touched, ever.
Last tune-up was by a trusted mechanic, but he's in the business to make money, so wonder if he took the extra time I'd have. Or my speed shop buddy would have *IF* he wrenched it.
It's lost a bit on performance too. Mainly after it gets to temp....but....when it's still cold and in open loop, moves it like before...throatier too.
Some major misc work in order for the spring session with my Sub.
So here's my list that might help you too:
1) Plugs. Thinking going to CR43TS's instead of the platinums. Trying them to see if they last as long, or nearly as long, as the cost of plugs has gone out of sight. I also modify all of my plugs if there isn't anything in the way. In the way as the hockey puck welded on the ground electrode of the platinums. Heck, even if platinum, I'll modify them to look see. The picture is of the last set taken out by my mechanic. Notice the amounts of wear on the ground electrode. Worn smooth and on one side. Says the flame goes that'a way when it combusts.
Also tried to take them out before the hockey pucks wore off, but the mechanic said about 3 had them gone, so tossed them and kept these for me to see (I wanted them all, but what the heck).
Note the amounts of anti-sieze. Use lots, but not so much it gets into the combustion chamber. Lots because BBs create so much heat, it needs to have the best thermal path for the plugs, so the stuff acts like thermal goop to increase the contact area to the head.
I cut the ground electrode off so that the end is just over the center point of the positive electrode. Learned that while racing and been doing it ever since. Better than indexing plugs with washers. Does the same thing and then some, as the spark is more exposed to the mixture. I think the plug behaves more like a hotter and colder plug in one. Hotter in that the tip gets hotter because of the hotter spark (less voltage needed, as the sharp edge right there...what split tails try to do) and colder as the path to reject the heat is shorter to the head.
2) Wires. The Taylors in there are about 80K miles. Time. Tayloyers again. Here's link to picture of them on my BB Sub: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Engine/09290010rdcd.jpg
3) New cap, rotor and boy do I ****HATE**** doing this on this vehicle. The dist is closer to the stereo than in the engine bay. There's about 3 Torx bits down on top of the tranny from my last time. Now know to use a bit of string to tie back those two wiring harnesses in the way and that the coil has (heck, now can't remember 2 or 3) bolts holding it on.
4) New O2's. Thinking only the front, 4 wire, heated will need changing. The rear, non heated should be okay, right guys? Comments on this logic?
5) Throttle body and bore cleaning. Regular carb cleaner, right? No MEK stuff (loved B12, but no more since it has MEK).
6) Charcoal canister. Wonder about that. I've never changed one on anything I've touched. Again, comments?
7) TPS, MAF, etc. Anyone have a good listing of which and the HOW2's to clean/replace/adjust/etc? Am sure can figure it out, but best to have the collective comments on hand, just in case.
8) New alternator. Dave02LT has been messing/teasing me with the new design and "maybe" it will fit. Either the old style 170amp CS144 brand new Delco or the new style 170amp AD244 from alternatorparts, or whatever they call themselves these days.
9) Reset the computer. Both for this tune up and for gasoline reblend coming.
10) New air filter (HD NAPA gold or OEM) and oil/filter change.
11) Anything else?